In vitro Cosmetics


Protection from UV / IR / HEV – induced damage

We analyse whether an ingredient or final product protects against the oxidative stress, aging and senescence induced by ultraviolet (UV), infrared (IR) or blue light (high-energy visible, HEV) radiation, quantifying the reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated, the cell viability decrease or the cells health.

DNA protection and repair from UV damage

We analyse whether an ingredient or final product protects against DNA lesions provoked by UV-B radiation, through quantification of thymine dimers by flow cytometry. At the same time, we determine the capacity of after-sun products to improve repair of damages induced by UV-B radiation.

Whitening / Self-Taninng

We analyse the capacity of an ingredient or end product to inhibit (whiten) or stimulate (self-tan) melanin synthesis, through quantification of melanin and the expression of genes involved in melanogenesis.

Antioxidant and Anti-aging

We determine the antioxidant capacity of a compound through quantification of cellular metabolites (GSSH, GSSG, Ophthalmic Acid, 2dG, 8OHdG, etc.) involved in the antioxidant protection system, by HPLC-MS/MS. Moreover, we quantify the expression of different genes involved with aging and the antioxidant system (Telomerase, SOD, Catalase, GPx, Nrf2, Oct4, etc.).

Inflammaging (Anti-Irritation and Calming Effect)

We determine the capacity of a product to protect against inflammatory response induced by an external agent such us UVB radiation, quantifying biomarkers including TNFalpha, IL-1a, IL-1b, NFkB, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, etc.

Cutaneous Penetration

Using confocal microscope, we analyze the capacity of a product to penetrate into the cutaneous surface. We use Human Reconstructed 3D skin or Pig skin and we can determine whether a vehicle (e.g lyposomes) improve penetration, as well as compare different products or vehicles among them.

Firming: Collagen, Elastin and MMPs

We analyze the capacity of a product or ingredient to stimulate or inhibit collagen synthesis, elastin, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), fibronectin, laminin, etc. both at gene (RT-qPCR) and protein (ELISA) levels.

Studies may be performed on Human 3D Reconstructed Skin (image).

Cytotoxicity and Regeneration

We use different assays to analyze the proliferative and regenerative capacity of a product or ingredient, upon various cellular and embryonic platforms. Moreover, these studies allow us to determine the effective concentration of a compound, optimizing production. The MTT and Streak (Wound-healing) assays are the most usual ones.

Confocal Microscopy (Human 3D Skin)

We analyze using confocal microscopy through the use of stains and specific antibodies, biomarkers such us cell proliferation (PCNA), oxidative stress (NRF2), apoptosis, hematoxilin-eosin staining, phalloidin staining, etc; upon human cell lines, pigskin and RHE (Reconstructed Human 3D Epidermis).

Anti-Pollution – Oxidative Stress and Cell Viability

We analyze the capacity of a product or functional active to protect against the oxidative stress or cell viability decrease induced by urban pollution, through quantification of reactive oxygen species (ROS) after treatment with Urban Dust.

Hyaluronic Acid Synthesis

We analyze the capacity of a determined product or ingredient to stimulate hyaluronic acid synthesis, in order to detoxify skin cells and delay the onset of the signs of premature skin aging.

Proteasome Activity

We analyze the capacity of an ingredient or functional active to stimulate the proteasome activity, helping skin detoxification and delaying the apparition of signs of skin aging.

Carbonylation and Lipid Peroxidation

We analyze the capacity of a product or ingredient to protect against pathological processes associated with premature aging and neurodegeneration, such as glycation, lipid peroxidation or protein carbonylation and carbamylation.

Hair Epigenetics – microRNAs

We analyze the capacity of an active to inhibit or increase the expression of 2 different microRNAs directly involved with the growth and hair-loss process, in dermal papilla cells from hair follicle.

Anti-Hair loss – Inhibition of 5-alpha reductase

It is widely demonstrated that enzyme 5-alpha reductase is involved in the development of androgenic alopecia, which constitutes 95 % of alopecia cases. The inhibition of this enzyme is the target of multiple compounds in the market from two decades ago, including Finasteride and Minoxidil.

At Bionos, we analyze in vitro the capacity of a compound to inhibit the expression of 5-alpha reductase isoforms, upon dermal papilla cells from hair follicle.



Capillary Strength – Keratin Synthesis

We determine the capacity of a product or ingredient to induce endogenous keratin synthesis, by using hair human cell lines (Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells, HFDPC).

Microarray Genomic Analysis

Assessment of the effects of a determined active or treatment over the expression of all human genome genes, through microarray analysis or next-generation sequencing (NGS) of the transcriptome.